Mar 10, 2013

It calls me on and on, across the universe

Posted by Mary |

Although I tried to be vigilant about posting on my latest trip to India, my netbook ran afoul of Indian power fluctuations. The power source died in Rishikesh, leaving us with just my cellphone to connect. No good.

What was good in Rishikesh, though, was the shopping and massages and, oh yeah, breaking into the Beatles ashram.  One of the highlights of the trip, for sure. Before we got to India, I mentioned to Terri that the ashram the Beatles stayed at in the 60s was in Rishikesh. It's been abandoned for some time now, and is slowly decaying back into to woods. It's locked up and no one is allowed to go in, so I suggested that we simply find our way inside. Terri was game, so we set off down the road one day, in search of the Maharishi Mahesh Ashram.

We were staying by the Laxman Jhula footbridge. After breakfast, we headed down the road toward the Ram Jhula footbridge. The ashram is located on the far side of Ram Jhula, downstream from the bridge.Because it was early in the day, we actually got a bit turned around. We walked past the plaza that leads to the footbridge, and kept on down the road. You want to find your way all the way down by the footbridge and keep going downstream.


As you continue downstream, you will reach this temple. Keep going past it and down the road.

Eventually, the road will turn to dirt, and you'll come to a sharp S curve with this yellow gate. Keep going.

The sign for the Beatles ashram is confirmation that you are headed in the right direction.

Finally, the road sort of ends at this dry riverbed. The place straight across is occupied, and someone may come out to chat with you. I wouldn't recommend telling them you plan to go in.

If you turn left and walk up the river bed, you'll find the locked front gates on the right, about where those men and motorcycles are.

Locked front gate. You won't get in through here.

Ha! But I wouldn't bring you all this way without getting you inside, too.

Keep going up the dry riverbed, and you'll see this path off to the right. It's just past the ashram. Go up this path.

Keep looking to the right, and you'll see these two logs across a little side trail. If they've been put here to keep you out, chances are you want to go in. Climb over these logs and go up the hill.

Crumbling wall = success!

The actual ashram photos will have to wait for another day, when I catch up on my backlog of photos and posts. I wanted to get these directions up quickly because a friend has just returned to India for another visit, and may be trying to locate the ashram as well. There are many amazing things to see inside the ashram walls. Tip: As you climb the road inside, you'll start seeing meditation pods on the right. Once you get to the circle past the little guard shack, you'll see many more meditation pods on the right. Those are fun to explore, and have the start of the Beatles graffiti. For most of it, though, you'll want to head to the left from the circle and walk down the road. There are some amazing abandoned buildings there, including the Beatles Cathedral, which is about halfway down the road on the left side.

Jan 11, 2013

Heard on the train

Posted by Mary |

It's like gastrointestinal Thunderdome.
--Me, not sharing
more details

Gujurat had the friendliest people of the trip. Too bad Terri and I came down with mild colds in Bhuj, and I seemed to acquire a touch of the Delhi belly in Ahmedabad. I opted to skip the antibiotics and tough it out on the train.

After our travel companion suffered some transportation woes, Terri and I decided to change our itinerary a bit, and are now in Rishikesh a bit early. It's gotten very white here. There's a Cafe Coffee Day on the far side of Laxman Jhula, and I see more Westerners than Indians. We used to stand out for being white. Now we stand out for not having dreads and wearing hiking boots. I guess we just can't win.

Jan 3, 2013

Heard in Pushkar

Posted by Mary |


No marijuana. Just cake.
--Waiter

Pushkar is on the backpacker circuit, but I didn't notice this many special lassi shops last time. There's one on every corner. No, I have not partaken. I'm too busy eating Israeli food and dancing. We had a 2-hour khalbeliya dance class today, and will be doing another 2 hours tomorrow. Raki has asked us to come to her village for dinner tomorrow night, and then we must sadly leave Pushkar. Brighton heads home while Terri and I head out to Bhuj.

Jan 1, 2013

Random notes: Bundi and beyond

Posted by Mary |

  • Date and cumin pickle is delicious.
  • Also delicious: hot ginger/lemon/honey drink
  • No westerners seem to take the government Bundi-Ajmer bus, judging by the level of stares we got.
  • A health care worker chatted us up a bit, then gave us her bangles as she got off the bus.
  • My super-awesome Devanagari skills helped me identify the Kota-Ajmer bus and the Pushkar bus. Score.
  • This hotel in Pushkar has special lassi. And special juice. Special juice sounds gross.
  • The last rickshaw in Bundi was playing "Barbie Girl."

Dec 30, 2012

Beautiful Bundi

Posted by Mary |

We made it to Bundi. Not going to lie - sleeper class overnight from Agra was not great. We did get some sleep though, and all survived. The only casualty was Brighton's sleep sack, which apparently got left on the train.

Bundi is, so far, pretty amazing. We've seen more westerners than we did in Delhi, which is strange. The fabric shops are great, and I've already bought two lengths. I may or may not locate a tailor before we leave. Great restaurants, too, and a very relaxed vibe.

I also finally bought my first sari of the trip. A green, blue and white one called my name. When I saw the choli piece was green and white polka dots, I was done. Terri has asked me to force her to buy fabric and get a salwar kameez set made before we leave. I guess shopping is my gift.

Dec 28, 2012

Heard in Delhi

Posted by Mary |

Don't think of it as hazy.
Think of it as a built-in Instagram filter.
--Me, on Delhi's
air quality

After an eventful morning, we left Delhi and took a train to Agra. The hotel seems to have gone downhill a bit since my last trip here. Tomorrow we check out, and then I will spend the day lounging around while Terri and Brighton do the tourist thing. I'm not paying to go back to the Taj Mahal. Then it's on to Bundi, via an overnight train. Sleeper class. Um, yay?

Dec 27, 2012

Heard in Delhi

Posted by Mary |

Their spatial dynamics are remarkably complex.
--Terri, on the skills
of autorickshaw drivers

Last night I told my husband I hadn't bought any new clothes yet. It wasn't a lie. However, on my way to dinner, I got distracted by a shop and ended up ordering two custom salwar kameez sets. It was a very good deal - less than $20 for custom-made pants, top and scarf. I picked out the two prettiest fabric sets they had.
After visiting the Red Fort today, we went back to Paharganj to pick them up. They are gorgeous. Brighton ended up ordering a set for herself too. I'm amazed that Terri hasn't decided to join in on the action yet.

We decided to go to a show called Dances of India tonight. After haggling, we got into an autorickshaw. The driver turned on the radio and started blasting some Bon Jovi. Normally I might be offended at the assumption that I wanted American music, but I couldn't resist singing along with "You Give Love a Bad Name" at the top of my lungs. Sadly, the dance show closed down a year ago, but the rickshaw ride remains a memorable part of the evening.

Tomorrow we take off for Agra. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that we'll only be there for one night this time.

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